Here we have summarized all our contacts, our communication with them, and what we learned and thus integrated to our project. Important to note is that our approach to this is that our work, as far as it has been possible, has been centred around conducting interviews. This was done in order to collect information efficiently, but also in order to better visualize our working process for you, the reader. Our goal is to show you our work using the easiest possible method, and we figured that interviews and visual representation was one of the best ways to do that.
Summary
Setting out to learn about what problems that needed the most tending to we found out about the incredibly multifaceted problems that the textile industry presents. The biggest problem as far as we could tell in this story is the fast fashion working model that rules the market today.
The increasing pace of production and the sinking prices, factory working conditions and product quality together with a lacking infrastructure an enormous amount of material is lost as waste. Losing it as waste is disastrous because we lose most of the energy and resources that went into producing it. According to our sources [1] the energy you get back from incinerating textile waste is barely comparable to what you put into producing it. If you’re able to salvage the natural fibers from used clothing, you’d decrease the environmental impact of that piece of clothing up towards 90%.[2]
Discussing the industrial implementations of our design with the Sustainability Unit of Sweden’s Environmental Protection Agency (hyperlink) led us to redesign our process and make it more practical. Integrating what they taught us will save time and costs for future iterations of this project.
Through the interviews and contacts that we established with the market and the researchers we learned that the individual is the key to the initial necessary steps towards sustainability. We learned from multiple people in the marketplace about the very simple changes that everyone can do to half their textile-carbon footprint and what could be done to maintain the normal shopping behavior whilst lowering environmental impact. (Myrorna Hyperlink) From talking with Eelina at Nudie Jeans (clothing store, more info here(hyperlink)) we realized that there’s a lot more to the hybrid material market and that our future implementations (Nudie Hypelink?) would have to encompass several hybrid fabric types.
A very influential but short conversation with Linda at FTI (hyperlink) turned us towards the Natalie at Gothenburgs municipality office taught us about the governmental work that is being done and has to be done in the future to get in front of these issues. When talking to Gunnel Grahn (hyperlink) we were taught that a lot of the issues that the market and private actors presented solutions to already exists in the wisdom of the senior generation. We brought this with us as we outlined our work in Sustainable(link).
After modifying our project design to better accommodate the necessary steps toward a circular economy, (hyperlink Future implementation) we set out to inform people about the hidden effects of their everyday lives. This would, in our opinion, provide people with enough information so that they could make educated judgements about how to act. You can read about how we did that in the Sustainable section.
Below you can find the interviews in video form (subtitles coming soon) as well as transcripts form these interviews. The conversations that we had with people are summarized and presented as well.
Contents
- Conversations with the elderly
- Johanna Nilsson (Author, Sustainable Entreprenuership)
- Re:Newcell
- Gothenburg Municipality Organ
- The Swedish Environmental Protection Agency, Sustainability Unit
- Avfall Svergie
- FTI
- Sopor.nu
- Nudie Jeans
- I:CO
- Tracks Recycle
- Research Institute of Sweden, RISE
- Myrorna, Secondhand actor
- Conclusion
Conversations with the Elderly
Questions
Through our project we interviewed some representatives from the senior generations to learn more about a time when production cycles where slower and more emphasis was put towards long lasting products. We had the wonderful opportunity to meet Gunnel Grahn who has been involved with sewing all her life. Here are some of the questions that we asked her.- Who are you?
- How was the public view on the sustainability and life length of products when you were young?
- Did you often buy clothes when you were young?
- How did you react if a piece of clothing got damaged?
- How did you learn sewing?
- What is the best thing about learning to take care of your own clothes?
Transcript of the interview »
What we integrated into our project
This discussion opened up a new avenue for us. We realized that part of the solution to the problems that we were exploring were already present in society. Learning about a different time, where the production cycles where much slower and more focus was put on re-use and longer life length of products, really set its mark on this project. Many of the points taken up here were explored further through our contacts with society and very influential when writing the problem description and Best Tips to individuals under the Sustainable section.
Johanna Nilsson, Sustainable Entreprenuership Influencer
Sustainable Entrepreneurship Influencer
Website: https://www.johannanilsson.se
One of the most influential parts our work with gathering information was when we encountered the book “Slow fashion” by Johanna Nilsson and Jennie Johansson. This led us to further contact and set up an interview with Johanna Nilsson. Here below are the questions we asked and their summarized answers.
Questions
- So, what kind of influence does the fast fashion working model have on the textile industry at large and the environment?
- The waste and the handling of it; is there any material or material composition that are especially problematic?
- Do you think there’s a responsibility that the government should take on by perhaps subsidising second-hand stores or increase the taxation on virgin products as an alternative route towards more sustainability?
- Is there any ethical consequences for the workers that work in the factories?
- Is there anything about the production itself that the average citizen would miss?
- What do you think that the future of spreading this information looks like? What kind of work have you been doing to influence this matter?
- Do you have any tips for people who are interested in making more sustainable fashion choices?
Transcript of the interview »
What we integrated into our project
This information was invaluable to us throughout our Human Practices work. Especially valuable were this knowledge when constructing our entire Sustainability and Science Communication sections.
Re:Newcell
Nora Eslander, Brand Manager, Re:Newcell
One of our contacts throughout the project was Nora Eslander, the Brand Manager at Re:Newcell. Re:Newcell is a so called 'clothes to clothes' recycling company, by scientists for consumers with very promising impact on textile circularity. To read more about them you can visit their website: https://renewcell.com
Questions
- What kind of work is being conducted at Re:Newcell?
- The quality of your ‘circulose’, does it reach the same criteria as virgin materials?
- To be able to conduct the recycling process you have to collect the materials that are to be processed. What does your collection process work today?
- Will the upcoming EU legislation regarding textile waste influence your business?
- Is there a concern for the collected materials being mixed?
- Is there anything a common consumer could think about to help with the circular textile economy?
- Where do you think the responsibilities lie when it comes to informing people about the plastics in textiles and its’ implications?
- The production of textiles is often outsourced in developing regions in Asia today so is that something you’re thinking about when you’re selling your product to textile producers?
- Is there anything about your work that you want to give attention to especially or something that you think is important for the general citizen, a government official or a store owner to know?
Transcript of the interview »
What we integrated into our project
Re:Newcell was in many ways one of our more exciting contacts. Their work is pioneering and ground-breaking in the regard of textile clothing to clothing recycling. What we learned from them went into part of our project idea, we learned that chemical recycling is a viable alternative as well as also providing valuable information when writing the problem description and best tips towards the government section under Sustainability.
Gothenburg Municipality organ
During our work, we contacted Natali Kjernell, Process and project manager, Gothenburg Municipality.
Website: https://goteborg.se/wps/portal?uri=gbglnk%3a2016320201715635
Questions
- In what way does the Municipal organ work towards collecting textiles?
- What happens to the textiles that are considered waste here in Gothenburg?
- The recycling that you’re discussing here, what type is it? Mechanical?
- Is there any responsibilities for the producers of textiles?
- Would this mean that the taxation would fall on the stores that import produce that is created abroad for example? I ask because very little production occurs in Sweden as of today.
- The Satin Project; Sustainable circular system of textile in the Nordic region, would you please share information about that?
- Something that became clear when we talked with the collection coordinator from Myrorna and something he also pointed out is that it takes a re-labelling of second-hand markets is very important to increase the profitability of it.
- Is Satin going to address the issue of driving a “second-hand promotion” as well?
- Have you been considering the options of subsidising second-hand stores or have you heard other governmental institutions talk along those lines before?
Transcript of the interview »
What we integrated into our project
Thus, we went back to the drawing board and designed gene-constructs that would give an enzyme cocktail which has a higher modularity than a gene-construct with several enzymes. To read more about this go to, implementation and engineering success.
Avfall Sverige
Caronline Steinwig, Biological recycling advisor, Avfall Sverige
Although Avfall Sverige couldn’t participate in our project, talking with Caroline gave us good pointers towards whom we should contact and why. Caroline pointed us towards the waste collectors (private and governmental) to get farther down and up the line of waste handling.What we integrated into our project This was used when further designing our iterative process for gathering information.
What we integrated into our project
This was used when further designing our iterative process for gathering information.
Linda, FTI, Plastics and Paper collection company
While we were searching far and wide between different companies in different markets and industries, we learned from Linda that, “as of today, there’s no rules or laws regarding the responsibilities of textile production and collection. Meaning, there’s no responsibility from manufacturer, importation streams or retailer to ensure that the customer collects and disposes of the material safely”.
What we integrated into our project
The lack of rules and regulations turned us towards the politicians, whom are the directors of societal responsibilities. We took this conversation further with their help. This Work also heavily influenced the Best Tips Under Sustainable.
Josefine Berglund, Industrial Networking, Sopor.nu
Our contact with Josefine gave us another indication that it’s the legislators and governance of market that must change. Incentive to change from a political level will turn the needle faster than individual impetus!
What we integrated into our project
This gave us vital clues for designing the Best Tips for the government under Sustainable.
Nudie Jeans
One of our contacts were the new thinking clothing company Nudie jeans.
A link to their website you can find here.
And a link to their sustainability rapport you can find here.
We had the opportunity to interview Eelina Brinkeberg who is one out of three responsible for environmental management at Nudiejeans. The main questions we asked Eelina are written here below. The idea behind the questions were to learn more about the practical implementations of our project as well as fast fashion and the textile industry in general. We also wanted to know more about the work they are doing towards a more sustainable future, rand what everyday consumers could do to help!
Questions
- Are there any environmental consequences of fast fashion?
- Are there ethical consequences to fast fashion?
- What are your thoughts on the use of elastane in jeans?
- How do you work to ensure sustainability and circularity in your business?
- As a consumer, what should you think about in order to limit your climate footprint in regards to textiles?
- How should you, as a consumer, think about the traceability of the products?
- What responsibility does clothing stores have in terms of informing their customers about the environmental impact of their products?
Transcript of the interview »
What we integrated into our project
The input given to us about the problem posed by polyester was evaluated and helped us greatly when designing Implementation. We also used much of this information when we compiled the problem description and the Best Tips for individiuals, clothing stores and government section under Sustainable.
I:Collect
I:Collect (I:Co) is a German company that works with second hand and mechanical recycling who was also one of our contacts through our early work. A link to their website can be found here.
We had a zoom interview with one of their employees Maike Brockman, where we learned much about their business and the reality of what the collection and recycling looks like for textiles in the modern world.
What we integrated into our project
The information that we gained from this collaboration was very helpful when designing our further outreach as well as when compiling our work in the Best Tips section in Sustainable.
Tracks Recycle
We also had contact with the new thinkning and inspirational second-hand company Tracks Recycle that focus much on outdoors life. A link to their website you can find here.
Our contact led to an interview with one of the Co-owners Anna Bergmark. The questions asked were aimed at understanding more about the environmental impact of textile industry and fast fashion as well as the innovative work being done to improve it. We also wanted to know more about how this work could be improved by consumers and also if there was anything that the government could do to help.
Questions
- Are there environmental consequences to fast fashion?
- Are there ethical consequences to fast fashion?
- How do you work to ensure sustainability and circularity in your business?
- How should you act as a consumer to limit your environmental footprint in regards of textiles?
- Is there anything the state can contribute to in regard to the promotion of sustainable textiles?
Transcript of the interview »
What we integrated into our project
The inspirational drive and information regarding how second-hand markets need to change and adapt in the future gave us good clues when designing best Best Tips for individuals under Sustainable.
Research Institutes of Sweden, RISE.
Our contact with the Lisa Schwarz Bour at the Research Institute of Sweden (RISE) gave us a plethora of valuable information in relation to our work. They did this through e-mail communication as well as a written rapport that they sent over which can be found under this link:
RISE Textile report »
What we integrated into our project
As has previously been described, our contacts with RI.SE gave us the key insights that were very influential when we found out where our project fits into society. Their textile report was also of huge importance when writing the problem description under Sustainable.
Myrorna
Ideal non-profit organization.
https://www.myrorna.se
Urban Bolin, Collection Coordinator for Myrorna.
Questions
- Who are you Urban, and what is Myrorna?
- Why is collection of used clothing necessary?
- What does the collection of clothes in Sweden look like today?
- What happens to the clothes that aren’t sold?
- Is there anything that the average consumer could do to make their textile consumption more sustainable?
- Would there be something that politicians and government could contribute with that would help your cause?
Transcript of the interview »
What we integrated into our project
The realisations we gained through our communication with Myrorna has greatly helped our design the second-hand aspects of our Best tips section under Sustainable.
